How to Care for Your Automatic Watch

An automatic watch is a marvel of mechanical engineering. Hundreds of tiny components work in concert to measure the passage of time without a battery, powered entirely by the motion of your wrist. With proper care, your timepiece will reward you with years of reliable service and enduring beauty.

This guide covers everything you need to know about caring for your automatic watch: winding, setting the time and date, understanding power reserve, water resistance, cleaning, storage, protection from magnets, servicing intervals, and the most common mistakes to avoid.

Understanding Your Automatic Movement

Before we discuss care, it helps to understand the basics of how your watch works. An automatic (self-winding) movement uses a weighted rotor that spins with the natural motion of your wrist. This rotation winds the mainspring, which stores energy and releases it in a controlled manner through a series of gears, ultimately driving the hands around the dial.

This elegant system means your watch winds itself as you wear it. However, it also means the watch will stop if left unworn for an extended period, typically after 36 to 41 hours depending on the movement. This is perfectly normal and causes no harm to the mechanism.

Winding Your Watch

Modern automatic movements, including the original Japanese calibres used in our timepieces, feature manual winding capability. This is particularly useful when you pick up a watch that has stopped or when you want to ensure a full power reserve at the start of the day.

How to Wind

1. Ensure the crown is in the neutral position: The crown should be pushed all the way in (the normal wearing position).
2. Turn the crown clockwise: Gently rotate the crown clockwise (away from you when the watch is on your wrist, or upward when held in your left hand with the crown facing right). You should feel a slight resistance with each turn.
3. Wind 20 to 30 turns: This is sufficient to build a healthy power reserve. You do not need to wind to maximum, as the automatic rotor will top up the reserve as you wear the watch throughout the day.
4. Do not force it: Modern movements have a slipping clutch mechanism that prevents overwinding, so you cannot damage the movement by winding too much. However, there is no benefit to excessive winding once you feel consistent resistance.

When to Wind

Wind your watch when:

• It has stopped after being unworn
• You are putting it on in the morning and want to ensure a full power reserve
• You have a relatively sedentary day ahead (less wrist movement means less automatic winding)

Setting the Time

Setting the time correctly is straightforward, but there is a proper technique that protects the movement.

How to Set the Time

1. Pull the crown to the second position (fully out): You will feel two clicks as you pull the crown out. The first click is the date-setting position. The second click is the time-setting position.
2. The second hand will stop (hacking): This feature, present in quality automatic movements, allows you to set the time to the exact second.
3. Turn the crown to set the desired time: Pay attention to the AM/PM indicator if your watch has a date function (more on this below).
4. Push the crown back in: The second hand will resume, and the watch begins running from the exact time you set.

Setting the Time with a Date Function

If your watch has a date window, it is important to know that the date changes around midnight. When setting the time, advance the hands through a full 24-hour cycle and observe when the date flips. This tells you whether the watch is showing AM or PM. Set accordingly to ensure the date changes at midnight, not noon.

Setting the Date

Most automatic watches with a date complication feature a quickset date function, which allows you to change the date without cycling through 24 hours of time.

How to Set the Date

1. Pull the crown to the first position (one click out): This engages the date-setting mechanism.
2. Turn the crown to advance the date: Depending on the movement, you may need to turn clockwise or counter-clockwise. If one direction does not change the date, try the other.
3. Set the correct date and push the crown back in.

The Date-Setting Danger Zone

This is critical: Do not use the quickset date function when the time is between approximately 9:00 PM and 3:00 AM. During this window, the date-change mechanism is engaged, and forcing the quickset function can damage the movement's date wheel or its driving components.

If you are unsure whether your watch is showing AM or PM, set the time to 6:00 (either one is safely outside the danger zone) before adjusting the date.

Understanding Power Reserve

Power reserve refers to how long your watch will continue running after being fully wound without any additional winding from the automatic rotor.

Typical Power Reserve

The original Japanese automatic movements in our timepieces offer approximately 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound. This means:

• If you wear your watch all day and take it off at bedtime, it will easily run through the night and well into the next day.
• If you take your watch off on Friday evening, it will typically run until sometime on Sunday, though this depends on how fully wound the mainspring was.
• For longer periods of non-wear, the watch will eventually stop. This is completely normal and does not harm the movement.

Watch Winders

A watch winder is an optional accessory that gently rotates your watch when you are not wearing it, keeping the automatic movement wound. They are useful if you rotate between several watches and want each one ready to wear without resetting. However, they are not necessary for the health of the movement. A stopped watch is not a damaged watch.

Water Resistance: Understanding 5ATM

Many of our timepieces are rated to 5ATM (5 atmospheres, or approximately 50 metres). It is essential to understand what this rating means in practice, as it is one of the most commonly misunderstood specifications in watchmaking.

What 5ATM Means

A 5ATM water resistance rating means the watch has been tested to withstand a static pressure equivalent to 50 metres of water depth. However, this does not mean you should take it diving to 50 metres. The rating refers to static pressure, not the dynamic pressures encountered during activities like swimming or diving.

Practical Guidelines for 5ATM

• Safe: Rain, hand washing, accidental splashes, brief surface swimming in calm water.
• Use caution: Swimming, showering (temperature changes and soap can affect gaskets over time).
• Avoid: Diving, water sports, high-pressure water (jet washing, water slides), hot tubs and saunas.

Protecting Water Resistance

• Always ensure the crown is pushed fully in: The crown is the most vulnerable point for water ingress. Never operate the crown while the watch is wet or submerged.
• Have gaskets checked annually: The rubber gaskets that provide the water seal degrade over time. A watchmaker can test and replace them.
• Rinse after saltwater exposure: If your watch is exposed to saltwater, rinse it briefly under fresh water and dry it with a soft cloth. Salt can corrode gaskets and case materials over time.
• Avoid extreme temperature changes: Moving from a hot environment to cold water (or vice versa) can cause condensation inside the case.

Cleaning Your Watch

Regular cleaning keeps your timepiece looking its best and prevents the buildup of dirt, oils, and perspiration that can cause premature wear.

Routine Cleaning

1. Use a soft, lint-free cloth: A microfibre cloth is ideal. Gently wipe the case, crystal, and bracelet or strap after each wear to remove oils and moisture.
2. For deeper cleaning of the case and bracelet: Use a slightly damp cloth with a tiny amount of mild soap. Avoid getting water near the crown or caseback. Dry thoroughly afterward.
3. For the crystal: A gentle wipe with a microfibre cloth is usually sufficient. For stubborn smudges, breathe on the crystal to create a slight fog, then wipe clean.

Bracelet Cleaning

Metal bracelets can accumulate dirt between the links. If the watch has sufficient water resistance:

1. Ensure the crown is fully pushed in.
2. Use a soft toothbrush with warm water and a mild soap to gently scrub between the links.
3. Rinse briefly and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.
4. Allow the bracelet to air dry completely, ensuring no moisture remains between the links.

Leather and Rubber Straps

Leather straps should be kept dry as much as possible. Wipe with a dry cloth after wear. Rubber and silicone straps can be cleaned with mild soap and water. Avoid harsh chemicals, solvents, or alcohol-based cleaners on any strap material.

Storage

How you store your watch when it is not on your wrist matters more than you might think.

Best Practices

• Use a watch box or pouch: This protects the watch from dust, scratches, and accidental impacts. A soft-lined box or individual watch pouch is ideal.
• Store in a cool, dry place: Avoid extreme temperatures and high humidity. A bedroom drawer or dedicated watch cabinet is suitable.
• Keep away from direct sunlight: Prolonged UV exposure can fade dial colours and degrade certain strap materials.
• Store crown-up if possible: Some watchmakers recommend storing a mechanical watch in the crown-up position, as this can help maintain accuracy. However, this is a minor consideration for daily storage.

Magnets: The Invisible Enemy

Magnetism is one of the most common and least understood threats to an automatic watch. Modern life surrounds us with magnetic fields, and their effect on mechanical movements can be significant.

What Magnetism Does

The hairspring inside your movement is a fine coil of metal that controls the rate at which the watch ticks. When magnetised, the coils can stick together, effectively shortening the hairspring and causing the watch to run fast, sometimes dramatically so. A heavily magnetised watch can gain several minutes per day.

Common Sources of Magnetic Fields

• Smartphones and tablets
• Laptop speakers and magnets in laptop lids
• Magnetic phone cases and wallet clasps
• Handbag magnetic clasps
• Refrigerator magnets
• Induction cooktops
• MRI machines (extreme)
• Audio speakers

Prevention and Treatment

Try to keep your watch at least 5 to 10 centimetres from known magnetic sources. If your watch suddenly starts running significantly fast (gaining a minute or more per day), it may have become magnetised. The good news is that demagnetisation is quick, non-invasive, and inexpensive. Any watchmaker can demagnetise a movement in seconds using a demagnetiser tool, restoring normal timekeeping immediately.

When to Service Your Watch

An automatic movement is a mechanical device with moving parts that require periodic maintenance. Regular servicing ensures your timepiece continues to perform at its best.

Recommended Service Interval

Most manufacturers recommend servicing an automatic movement every 3 to 5 years. A full service typically includes:

• Complete disassembly of the movement
• Ultrasonic cleaning of all components
• Inspection and replacement of worn parts
• Re-lubrication with fresh oils and greases
• Reassembly and regulation
• Water resistance testing (if applicable)
• Final accuracy check over multiple positions

Signs Your Watch May Need Service

• Noticeable loss of accuracy beyond normal variation
• Reduced power reserve (watch stopping earlier than expected)
• Rough or gritty feeling when winding the crown
• Unusual sounds from the movement
• Condensation or moisture visible under the crystal
• Second hand stuttering or moving erratically

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even well-intentioned watch owners can inadvertently cause damage. Here are the most common mistakes and how to avoid them.

1. Setting the Date in the Danger Zone

As mentioned earlier, never use the quickset date function between 9:00 PM and 3:00 AM. Set the time outside this window first, then adjust the date.

2. Operating the Crown While Wet

Never pull out or turn the crown while the watch is wet or submerged. Even with a screw-down crown, always dry the watch first. Water can wick past the gaskets when the crown is in an open position.

3. Ignoring Magnetism

Placing your watch directly on top of a smartphone, laptop, or speaker is an easy way to magnetise the movement. Make it a habit to keep them apart.

4. Skipping Regular Service

A watch that seems to be running fine may still benefit from service. Lubricants dry out and degrade over time, and running a movement without proper lubrication accelerates wear on critical components. Preventive service is always cheaper than repair.

5. Using Harsh Chemicals

Perfumes, insect repellent, solvents, and cleaning chemicals can damage gaskets, crystals, case finishes, and strap materials. Apply such products before putting your watch on, and remove your watch before cleaning.

6. Dropping or Impacting the Watch

Automatic movements contain delicate components. While modern movements are reasonably shock-resistant, dropping a watch onto a hard surface can dislodge parts, crack jewels, or bend pivots. Handle your timepiece with care.

7. Storing Multiple Watches Together

Watches stored loose in a drawer or box can scratch each other. Always use individual compartments, pouches, or soft dividers.

Caring for Your Investment

A hand-assembled automatic watch is more than an accessory. It is a precision instrument crafted with care, built to last, and designed to be enjoyed for years. By following the guidelines in this article, you ensure that your timepiece continues to perform beautifully and look its best for as long as you own it.

Browse our full collection of meticulously crafted timepieces, or explore our best sellers to find a watch worthy of the care it will receive.